FAQs

As a leading storage tank supplier, tanks.ie receives enquiries about safe, secure and environmentally responsible fuel storage. To find answers to some of the most Frequently Asked Questions... just click the relevant category to your need. If however, you have a question we haven't answered then please do not hesitate to contact us for further assistance

 

IMPORTANT INFORMATION: Every effort is made to keep this area of the site up to date. However, Tanks.ie cannot be held liable for errors or omissions. Compliance with statutory requirements is the responsibility of the person(s) who install, use and maintain products supplied by Tanks.ie. If you have concerns over compliance, you must seek professional advice, contact your local Building Control Officer, your local environmental authority or OFTEC. Tanks.ie strongly advises that all oil storage installations should be installed and maintained only by an OFTEC Registered Technician. Tanks.ie will not be responsible for installations which do not comply with prevailing statutory requirements.


Oil

Oil Tanks

Can you screen an oil tank?

Although Oil tanks are not the most attractive things to have in your garden, we always recommend seeking the advice of your local OFTEC registered liquid fuel tank installer as to the best place to position and how to screen your tank, if needed. The regulations for oil tank installation vary according to which region of the UK or Ireland you live in and there are also other environmental factors that need to be taken into account.  For more information, please check out - OFTEC

Some ways customers have screened their tanks are below, however please check with your local OFTEC installer first.

Walls

One of the most common ways to hide an oil tank is to build a false wall around it. Whether you use bricks, stone or fencing, make sure you leave space to get in and around the tank for maintenance and replacement.

Landscaping

Probably the most effective and aesthetic ways to hide an oil tank is to surround it with shrubs, trees, or potted plants that can help to camouflage the tank from view. Make sure you the plants are properly maintained, as they can become a fire hazard if not cared for properly.

Whatever option you choose, your tank will be out of sight – but it should not remain out of mind! Remember to keep on top of oil levels and have your tank regularly inspected by a qualified engineer to prevent any potential problems.

What is a Single Skin Tank?

A single skin oil tank consists of a single container in which fuel is stored. Single skin oil tanks are not suitable for the storage of fuel at commercial, industrial or institutional premises; or at domestic installations with an installed capacity of over 2,500 litres - unless installed within a suitably bunded area. For all other installations, an Oil Tank Risk Assessment must be undertaken by a competent person prior to installation and in accordance with the requirements of OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3. In anticipation of future possible regulations, serious consideration should be given to fitting a Bunded Tank, even where a single skin tank may currently suffice.
Click here to view our Single Skin Tanks

What is a Bunded Tank?

A Bunded Tank simply consists of an 'oil tank within an oil tank'. In the event of a spillage, surplus liquid will collect in the outer tank, thus averting a pollution incident. Bunded Tanks are now required at commercial, industrial, institutional, commercial and most domestic premises.

How close to a boundary can I place an oil storage tank?

If the oil tank has a nominal capacity of less than 3,500 litres, it should not be placed any closer than 760mm to a boundary. This assumes that there are no flue outlets or buildings between the tank and the boundary. Where these distances cannot be achieved, the protection measures noted in OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3 and British Standard BS5410 must be provided by means of a 30-minute fire resistant wall which extends a minimum of 300mm above and beyond the ends of the oil tank. For oil tanks with a nominal capacity of 3,500 litres or greater please contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

How close to a flue outlet can I place an oil tank?

Oil tanks with a nominal capacity of less than 3,500 litres should not be placed within 1.8 metres of a flue outlet. Where these distances cannot be achieved, the protection measures noted in OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3 and British Standard BS5410 must be provided by means of a 30-minute fire resistant wall which extends a minimum of 300mm above and beyond the ends of the tank. For oil tanks with a nominal capacity of 3,500 litres or greater please contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

How close to a building can I place an oil tank?

Oil tanks with a nominal capacity not exceeding 3,500 litres should not be fitted any closer than 1.8 metres to a non fire-rated (30-minute minimum fire resistance) wall or eaves. Where these clearances cannot be achieved, the measures noted in British Standard BS5410 and OFTEC Technical Instruction Book 3 must be provided i.e. the provision of a 30 minutes (minimum) fire resistant wall which extends at least 300mm above and beyond the ends of the oil tank. It will be necessary to protect exposed eaves forming part of a roof within 1.8 metres of the top of an oil tank to provide a minimum of 30 minutes fire resistance. Cladding can be applied to the eaves in order to prevent fire from spreading to the roof. For oil tanks with a capacity of 3,500 litres or greater, please contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

Can I place an oil tank inside a domestic garage or building?

Internal oil storage tanks should never be installed in a habitable area and if installed internally, should always be contained within an enclosed chamber. Detailed requirements exist for internal oil storage installations. For more information contact your local Building Control Officer or OFTEC.

Are any plastic oil tanks sold by Tanks.ie suitable for direct burial underground?

A definite NO.

From what materials are plastic oil tanks manufactured?

All oil tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are manufactured from Medium Density Polyethylene (MDPE) - a material that displays excellent chemical and impact resistance properties, making it ideal for external fuel storage. Fittings vary according to tank type and supplier. However, in general, fill points are made from either coated mild or stainless steel, outlets from coated mild steel, and vent points are manufactured from plastic. All materials used in the manufacture of oil tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are resistant to the potentially damaging long-term effects of fuel.

What are the base requirements for plastic oil tanks?

All oil tanks must be installed on a flat, level and fire resistant base capable of supporting the weight of the tank when fully laden. If concrete slabs are used they should be a minimum of 50mm thick. The base should extend at least 300mm beyond the widest points of the tank and fully support the base of the tank in its entirety. Piers or pillars are not suitable for this purpose and can cause irreparable damage to the tank.

Can I fit a sight-gauge to a single skin oil tank?

Technically, sight-gauges can still be fitted to a single skin oil tank - subject to prevailing statutory requirements. However, it should be noted that a sight-gauge is a potential leak point and as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply them and do not recommend them. Preference should instead be demonstrated to fitting an electronic oil tank contents gauge, which, unlike a sight gauge, is positioned above the maximum level of fuel in the tank, thereby dramatically reducing the likelihood of an environmental pollution incident. An Apollo type electronic oil tank gauging system is fitted as standard to all Harlequin Advance Single-Skin Oil tanks supplied by Tanks.ie - eliminating the requirement to fit a sight-gauge.

Can I fit a sight-gauge to a Bunded Tank?

No. Please note however that all Harlequin Bunded Tanks (except 350BND/ENV), Harlequin Polyrock Bunded Oil Tanks, Harlequin BioBund Bunded tanks, and Harlequin Fuel Stations are pre-supplied with an electronic oil tank contents gauge, which removes the requirement for a sight-gauge to be fitted.

There is a two-pin type socket fitted to my Harlequin oil tank. What is this for?

This permits an LRC enabled delivery driver to plug in his overfill prevention equipment and is not for consumer use.

Are plastic oil tanks designed to protect from the damaging effects of sunlight?

Yes. Every tank sold by Tanks.ie is manufactured from a material which incorporated UV inhibitors. These prevent UV rays from permeating the structure of the tank, thus preventing fuel degradation.

Are plastic oil tanks suitable for the storage of fuel for aviation use?

No.

Are plastic oil tanks fitted with sludge-valves / ball-cocks?

No. Openings (other than the tank outlet) are not permitted below the maximum level of fuel in the tank. This reduces the risk of accidental spillage. In the event that contaminants (e.g. water) need to be removed from the tank, they should be removed by an appropriately licensed contractor via the inspection aperture fitted to each tank.

I have discovered the presence of water in my oil. How do I get this removed?

Please contact your local fuel distributor who will be able to provide advice on how best to remove it.

Are plastic oil tanks suitable for use with oil fired cookers?

Yes.

On warm days there is a slight smell of oil from my oil tank. Why?

This is perfectly normal and is simply the fuel venting through the weatherproof vent fitted to the oil tank.

Do you sell gravity feed kits for the delivery of diesel fuel?

No, as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply these kits, due to the high risk of accidental damage / discharge associated with their use. Additionally, at many installations today their continued use is illegal. If you require a tank to store diesel fuel for vehicular use, we would advise you consider a Harlequin Fuel Station, or Fuel Point For BioDiesel applications, Harlequin BioFuel Stations are recommended for BioDiesel blends of up to B100. Alternatively, for connection to remote pedestal type dispensing units, Harlequin's BioBund range is ideal. Please note that all BioDiesel tanks supplied by Tanks.ie are suitable only for use with BioDiesel produced in accordance with European Standards.

Do you supply dip-sticks?

No - not as separate items. However, dipsticks are supplied as standard on all Harlequin tanks with a capacity between 650 litres and 2700 litres as standard.

Are Single Skin Oil Tanks or standard Bunded Tanks suitable for storing 'Adblue'?

No.

Oil Tank Accessories

What are the advantages of a Tiger Loop?

The Tiger Loop is a de-aeration device which removes air from the fuel prior to combustion. The result is a cleaner, more-efficient burn, with reduced emissions and enhanced cold weather performance. Additionally, the Tiger Loop can permit the tank to be positioned lower than the burner and up to 30 metres away. Therefore when connected to a pressure jet burner, it is ideal for Top Outlet Bunded Tank installations and eliminates the need for an undesirable return line. Please note that Tiger Loops are unsuitable for use with installations incorporating a vaporising burner.

How do I prime a Tiger Loop?

The Tiger Loop is self priming.

Does a Tiger Loop require batteries or mains power?

No.

Do You Supply Dipsticks?

No – not as separate items. However, dipsticks are supplied as standard on all Harlequin tanks with a capacity between 650 litres and 2700 litres as standard.

Do You Sell Gravity Feed Kits for the Delivery of Diesel Fuel?

No, as an environmentally responsible supplier we do not supply these kits, due to the high risk of accidental damage / discharge associated with their use. Additionally, at many installations today their continued use is illegal. If you require a tank to store diesel fuel for vehicular use, we would advise you consider a Harlequin Fuel Station, or Fuel Point.

Oil Tank Gauges

How accurate are oil tank gauges?

Just like in your car, oil tank gauges measure the level of fuel remaining by using a float. With visual oil tank gauges, you will see a vial or clock that tell you whether your tank is full, ¾-full, ½-full, ¼-full or near empty. Levels may also be displayed as a percentage. These provide a good estimate of how much oil you have left in your tank and are useful for letting you know when you may need more. Oil tank gauges usually have a rigid metal rod attached to a float inside the oil tank. As the oil is consumed, the float falls accordingly and the gauge reading drops. However, because the bottom of a fuel oil tank is usually rounded, the gauge will go from a quarter-full to empty quicker than it goes from half-full to a quarter. This means they are not completely accurate and should only be used as a guide as to how much oil remains in the tank.

For more precise oil tank readings, a smart oil tank gauge uses an ultrasonic sensor that can provide accurate readings to within a few litres.

How do you read the gauge on an oil tank?

This will depend on the type of oil tank gauge you have. Heating oil tanks that sit above the ground typically have a float gauge up top, which have an arm with a floating end on it. As oil is consumed, the float falls accordingly. The disc or needle on the indicator will move up and down as the float inside the tank moves, indicating the approximate level of oil in the tank. If your tank holds 1250 litres of oil, ½ a tank means approximately 625 litres remain. If the disc is showing ¼ of a tank, there’s 312 litres remaining and if it’s showing ¾ of a tank, there’s about 938 litres remaining. The levels may also be displayed as a percentage. 

If your oil tank gauge uses an ultrasonic sensor, like our range of smart oil tank gauges, you’ll be able to read a much more precise tank level by simply opening the app. Except for the top 8 inches of your tank, smart oil gauges will provide readings within a few litres in your tank.

Do I read top or bottom of oil tank gauge?

Some people get confused when taking a reading on their oil tank gauge – whether they should use the top or the bottom as the indicator. Read the gauge on the top of the tank. It will tell you if your tank is full, three-quarters full, half-full, a quarter-full or near empty. The levels may also be presented as a percentage.

Because of the rounded bottom of an oil tank, you may notice that the gauge goes from a quarter-full to empty quicker than it goes from half-full to a quarter. For this reason, you should only use float gauges as an estimation of how much fuel is left in the tank and it is advisable to reorder oil when the gauge is reading ¼ full to avoid running out.

How do I know how much oil is in my tank?

You can find out how much oil is left in your oil tank by checking the oil tank gauge. How you do this will depend on the type of oil tank gauge you have. If you have a smart oil tank gauge, you’ll be able to read a much more precise tank level by simply opening the app. You can usually set up notifications that will alert you when your tank is starting to run low. Or perhaps you’re using a visual oil gauge. As oil is consumed, the float level drops and the disc inside the float gauge vial indicates the approximate level of oil in the tank – shown either as a percentage or full, ¾-full, ½-full, ¼-full etc. If you’re using a float gauge, it's a good idea to set a regular day to check your tank's oil level to avoid running out of oil. Set a reminder on your calendar or phone marking specific days to check your oil tank. It is also important to check that your gauge is in good working order. If you’ve had your heating on but the dial hasn’t moved in a while, there's a good chance it's not reading the level correctly.

What liquids are the Apollo remote electronic gauges used to monitor?

Kerosene (C1/C2), Agricultural Fuel Oil (A2), Diesel (D) and Water. To see our range of Apollo Alarms click here.

What does an oil gauge do?

An oil gauge sits inside your oil tank and lets you know how much oil remains. A basic sight gauge has a clear tube that runs all the way from the outlet at the bottom of the tank, showing you exactly where the fuel level is. Float gauges use a float that that goes down with the oil as it is used, usually displaying the oil level on a clock face. More technical devices, like Kingspan's SENSiT smart Wi-Fi enabled tank level monitor, enable you to monitor your oil levels through a smartphone app.

How do I replace an oil gauge?

If the gauge inside your tank has failed or needs replacing, don't worry — it is possible to replace it if you are careful. To replace a float gauge, you will need a replacement gauge, oil lubricant, a wrench, wire and a torch. Use lubricant on the tank cap to loosen it, before turning it carefully with a wrench. Be careful not to ruin the threads. Find the end of the old float gauge arm and pull it from the oil tank with a piece of wire. You may need a torch to see what you’re doing. Remove the gauge from the gauge pipe and place the new gauge inside. Re-insert the gauge and gauge pipe into the oil tank and close the lid.

How much oil should be in my oil tank?

It is important not to let your oil level fall too low. We recommend you keep at least 12 inches of oil at the bottom of your oil tank to avoid an emergency and to prevent a delivery disrupting the sediment that settles at the bottom of your tank. If this sediment is disturbed it can clog up filters and pipes, leading to costly repairs. Most manufacturers will state the capacity guide for each oil tank model.

How do you install a Watchman Sonic

Have you recently purchased a Watchman Sonic and unsure how to install it onto your oil tank? Here at Tanks.ie we can provide you with an easy step by step guide to help you correctly install your Watchman Sonic on to your tank.

 

HOW DO I INSTALL THE WATCHMAN SONIC?

To ensure a quick and easy installation of the Watchman Sonic, please follow the below steps.

Parts required for installation

 

STEP 1 – CHECKING TANK’S LEVEL, DISTANCE FROM RECEIVER AND HEIGHT OF TANK.

There a few things to consider, even before you start to install your Watchman Sonic onto your tank.

  1. Is the tank on a flat level Surface
  2. Is the tank within 200 meters range from the receiver position
  3. Not including the base, is the  maximum height of the tank 3 meters?  If larger than this, please contact us.

 

STEP 2 – PREPARING YOUR TANK

 

Below are few steps for making sure your tank is ready for the Watchman Sonic, whether you have a Pr-Drilled tank or one which is undrilled, we have a step for you.

Please note that it is important for all items to be kept dry during the installation process, to achieve the best outcome.

 

PRE-DRILLED TANKS

With most pre-drilled tanks, there will already be a 32mm opening on the top of the tank, with possibly a tube fitted. If so, remove the cover by undoing the 2 screws holding it in place. Dispose of the tube which was fitted, in accordance with your local government guidelines.

Please check the pre-drilled hole is a minimum of 30mm in diameter.

The space beneath the Watchman Sonic needs to be free of any obstacles, so please check that the ultrasonic beam path is clear of any obstructions. If not this could send back false readings.

 

UN-DRILLED TANKS

When choosing the correct position on your tank to drill the hole required, consider choosing a flat level point that is the same level and no higher than any opening at the top of the tank. Like the Filling point etc.

If the transmitter is fixed at an angle, it will give an incorrect level reading on the receiver, so the straighter the better.

Take care not to choose an area where water could gather, i.e. a dent/depression or a position directly above any restricted area, as this can again give a false reading.

If your Un-drilled tank has window configurations or internal braces (like the below image), please do not position your watchman Sonic directly above these or within 15cm of the area of the window or edge of the tank. The sonic’s path needs to be completely clear to the bottom of the tank to work accurately.

Once you have found the correct position, drill a hole in the tanks top surface, using a 32mm hole-saw.

 

STEP 3 – FITTING THE TRANSMITTER

If your tank comes with a pre-drilled hole, please follow the next step to help fit the transmitter base to your tank.

  • Remove the cap from the hole and insert the transmitter base (part B), ensuring the weather seal is securely in place
  • Tighten the Watchman base on to the tank with 2 stainless steel self-tapping, counter sunkscrews supplied (part C). Please be careful not to over tighten the screws.

 

STEP 4 – MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE TANK

To accurately measure the height of your oil tank, measure from the base of the tank (not including the base/piers the tank is positioned on) to the position of the Watchman Sonic (should be the same as the fill point). For the Watchman Sonic to work, the maximum height is 3 meters for the measurement above.

 

STEP 5 – SETTING THE SWITCHES ON THE RECEIVER

Within your product packaging, use the Tank height chart, read across to the relevant multi switch setting, using the tank measurements you took in step 4. For example, if your measurement was 100cms, then the switches to flick up would be Switch 5 and switch 7.

 

To flick the switch upwards, using a screwdriver or top of ballpoint pen to set the relevant switches. These switches can be found on the on the back of the received above the plug (as in the position displayed below)

Switches 1 & 2 are factory set switches and have no relevance to the end user. If you wish to set a audible ring feature, then switch one needs to be moved up. This will cause the the unit to bleep in the event of a low level reading.

 

STEP 6 – LINKING RECEIVER AND TRANSMITTER

To pair the receiver (part A) to the transmitter (part D) so that the system code is unique to your tank set up, you will need to do the following and it should only need to be done once -

  • Plug the receiver into a suitable and convenient electrical socket.
  • Switch on
  • The display screen on the front of the receiver will show a flashing bar. This will indicate that the receiver is waiting for the code required. The bar will continue to flash for upto 2 minutes, during which time, you should be able to pair the transmitter to the receiver.
  • Hold the transmitter against the receivers right hand side, so that the white dot on the transmitter is touching the black dot on the receiver for roughly 20 seconds, to allow the unique code to be transferred. This is IMPORTANT to help with the pairing.
  • Bars will start to increase up the display screen and a clicking sound should be audible. When all 10 bars are visible and flashing, this will indicate that the unique code has been transferred.
  • Once matched, attached the transmitted immediately to the position on the tank.
  • If you are installing more than one Watchman Sonic unit, please wait 9 minutes before matching the other units.

 

STEP 7 – ATTACHING THE TRANSMITTER TO THE BASE

 

Once paired, screw the transmitter (part D) into the base (part E), ensuring the transmitter is vertical on top of the tank and level.

Please match sure that the threads have not crossed, so when screwed in correctly it should give a secure seal.

 

STEP 8 - CHECKING THE LEVEL OF OIL WITHIN THE TANK

The bars on the visible screen of the receiver indicates the level of oil that is within your tank.

Please note that it can take up to 2 hours until the first accurate reading is dispalyed on the Watchman Sonic.

Congratulations your Watchman Sonic should now be successfully installed.

 

If you require any further technical information, or if your Watchman Sonic is not working as it should, please contact [email protected].

What liquids are the Apollo remote electronic gauges used to monitor?

Kerosene (C1/C2), Agricultural Fuel Oil (A2), Diesel (D) and Water.

Is an Apollo gauge compatible with a Watchman / Full Stop Handheld Unit?

No.

Fuel Dispensing Tanks

What are the power requirements for mains powered Harlequin Fuel Stations, Harlequin Fuel Points and Harlequin BioFuel Stations?

13 amp single-phase mains power supply with a Residual Current Device (RCD) fitted at the connection point to the power supply. All mains electrical installations must only be undertaken by a qualified electrician and must be inspected and tested regularly in accordance with statutory requirements.

What liquids are Harlequin Fuel Stations and Harlequin Fuel Points suitable for storing and dispensing?

Diesel (D) to British Standard BS2869. Additionally, Harlequin Fuel Stations and Harlequin Fuel Points are also suitable for the storage and dispensing of Bio-Diesel with a bio-element of up to 5% concentration.

Can I store and dispense Kerosene (C1/C2) from a Harlequin Fuel Station, Harlequin Fuel Point or Harlequin BioFuel Station?

No. The pumps and ancillary equipment fitted to these products are suitable only for use with Diesel. Dispensing a non-approved fuel from this equipment could result in serious injury or death.

Are the flow meters fitted to Harlequin Fuel Stations, Harlequin Fuels Points and Harlequin BioFuel Stations suitable for the resale of fuel?

No.

Are batteries supplied as standard with low voltage Harlequin Fuel Stations?

No.

Are Harlequin Fuel Stations, Harlequin Fuel Points and Harlequin BioFuel Stations suitable for dispensing 'Adblue'?

No.

Waste Oil Tanks

Are plastic Oil Recycling Banks / Waste Oil Tanks suitable for the disposal of petrol or any other highly flammable liquid? 

No. For advice on how to dispose of petrol and any other similarly dangerous liquids, please contact your local authority.

HVO Biofuel Tanks

What is HVO fuel?

HVO or Hydrotreated Vegetable Oil, is a renewable liquid fuel made from from 100% renewable waste streams through hydrotreatment and isomerisation to create a greener, cleaner fuel. HVO is a fossil-free biofuel made from 100% renewable waste materials. HVO can be a direct replacement to kerosene as the properties are very similar.

What are the benefits of using HVO fuel?

HVO BIOFUEL TANKS

Over 680,000 homes currently use heating oil in the Republic of Ireland. Hydrotreated Vegetable Oil or HVO would provide a near drop-in replacement for kerosene and offers an extremely cost-effective alternative to other low carbon heating technologies.

The Benefits of HVO fuel are:

  • Up to 90% reduction in greenhouse emissions
  • Renewable and sustainable
  • Replacement for regular diesel & gas oil
  • Excellent cold-weather performance
  • Improved safety, storage and handling compared to regular diesel
  • Biodegradable and non-toxic
  • Zero FAME, sulphur and fossil content
  • Sustainably produced
  • Absence of aromatics
  • Higher flash point of 61 degrees Celsius
  • Supported by OFTEC

Can I use HVO fuel in my existing boiler?

Some existing heating apliances may work with HVO Fuel with some small modifcations but many of the new heating appliances can be used with both normal heating oil and HVO oil. You will need to check with the manufacturer.

The process for converting existing oil boilers includes removing fossil fuel residues, water and contaminates from the storage tank, replacing the burner with an HVO specific burner, changing nozzles, and ensuring that all fuel carrying components and seals are checked for compatibility.

Generator Diesel Tanks

Can I store diesel in a transportable tank?

A transportable diesel tank should be stored in a secondary containment area if it contains fuel as in most cases these are single skin.

These tanks are primarily designed for transporting fuel to a place of work to be completely discharged of fuel.

Can I have a flow meter on my diesel tank if fitted with a hand pump or if gravity fed?

No. Unfortunately the pressure required to enable the flow meter to read accurately is not at a tolerance that the flow meter can record.

Why can't I have an automatic shut off nozzle on my diesel tank if fitted with a hand pump or if gravity fed?

Unfortunately the automatic nozzle requires a pressure of the fuel being pumped to operate the shut off mechanism.

A hand pump or gravity fed tank would not have the necessary pressure to enable this.

How secure are the diesel dispensing tanks?

All the diesel dispensing tanks that we sell are bunded which is a term that literally means a `tank within a tank'. This is designed to keep the fuel safe in the very rare event should the inner tank split. The cabinet doors can be locked either with a key or in some instances the tank is supplied with a metal post which the customer can secure with their own padlock

Advanced diesel dispensing tanks can sometimes be offered or come with fuel management systems which would only allow authorized people with key fobs to dispense fuel.

Are batteries supplied as standard with 12v equipped pumps on the diesel dispensing tanks?

No. The 12v pumps would come supplied with battery cables and crocodile clips to connect to a battery outside of the tank. We are unable to provide batteries.

Brands

Klargester

Who or what is Klargester?

Kingspan Klargester is one of the world's leading manufacturers of wastewater treatment systems, with over 65 years experience, within the industry, With a global reputation specialising in the manufacture of packaged pollution control products, Klargester has developed a range of innovative products, revolutionising methods of dealing with the treatment of sewage on sites where mains drainage is not available.

Their extensive range of Klargester products include Sewage Treatment plants, septic tanks, Cesspools, fuel and oil separators and grease traps.

How Does a Klargester BioDisc Work?

The BioDisc uses a Rotating Biological Contractor (RBC) system which includes three stages to treat waste water. After the water has passed through a primary settlement tank, where heavy solids settle to form a sludge in the bottom of the tank, it moves into the Biozone for breaking down by microorganisms on the RBC. Suspended solids return to the primary settlement zone, and the liquor is transferred to the second stage Biozone for further treatment. Any remaining solids are settled out in the final settlement tank, leaving the remaining effluent clean enough to be discharged into a watercourse.

How often should you empty your Klargester tank?

Sludge builds up in septic tanks and it must be regularly removed to keep your Klargester tank working for as long possible. Tanks that are poorly maintained will need repairing or replacing sooner and could experience issues like bad smells, blocked pipes, cracked and blocked pipes, and failed motors and pumps. You may also notice soggy ground and pools of water forming around the drainage point, a sign that the effluent is not draining from the house quickly enough, are all indications that your Klargester septic tank is not coping.

 

You should get the sludge that builds up in your septic tank removed, a process called ‘desludging’ before it exceeds the maximum capacity. We recommend your Klargester tank should be desludged a minimum once a year and always ensure that the company you use to remove the sludge is a registered waste carrier. 

How does a Klargester septic tank work?

A Klargester septic tank disposes of the sewage and wastewater from your property. It collects the wastewater from your property and separates the solids from the liquids, and then any leftover effluent is discharged into a drainage field or soakaway.

 

There are two different types of septic tanks, each with their own benefits and suitability to different properties and individual requirements.

 

The Alpha Klargester septic tank

One of the most popular Klargester septic tanks, the Alpha tank is light, watertight, and particularly strong. Thanks to its shape the tank is easy to handle and install and has a subtle visual impact that many people find desirable.

 

 

Gamma Klargester septic tanks

If you’re looking for a more environmentally friendly choice, look no further than the Gamma Klargester septic tank. It is easy to install, durable, strong and lightweight.

 

Wastewater

Sewage Pumping Stations

Does every house need a sewage pump station?

Sewage pumping stations are needed when gravity cannot be relied upon to move wastewater and sewage towards the main sewer line. Perhaps there is a lack of gravitational flow if, for example, the sewage is situated below the main sewer level and would need to be pumped upwards. Maybe the sewer is obstructed by a ridge or there is no gravity system in place. In these circumstances, installing a sewage pump station could be much cheaper and just as effective as installing a sewage system with gravitational flow.

You’ll find many advantages to having a sewage pump station installed at your property. They are fitted with alarms that will notify you if there are any problems with the system. Sewage pump stations also work automatically so there is minimal human contact. This reduces the risk of health issues.

How much does it cost to install a sewage pump station?

The first cost to consider is for the sewage pump station itself. And this will vary greatly depending on the specific model you chose. Whether you need a single or double sewage pump station, you’ll find our prices at Tanks Direct are extremely competitive.

Then comes the cost of installation. If you are installing a pump for the first time in a space previously unprepared for installation, the cost will be higher than if you are replacing an existing pump. This is because all the additional preparation required has already been done. The location of your install could also have a bearing on the installation cost. If the site is awkward to get to or a difficult material to dig up, your costs will be higher.

You’ll also want to consider the ongoing maintenance costs of sewage pump stations. Regular servicing is essential to keep your equipment working as well as possible. Sewage pumping stations are subject to wear and tear and require regular servicing to operate effectively. Catching any issues early will minimise the risk of failure and help prevent costly repairs.

How often do sewage pump stations need to be emptied?

It is vitally important that your sewage pump station is regularly serviced and properly maintained. This will improve the day-to-day efficiency of your sewage treatment pump and help improve its lifespan. By inspecting the pump regularly, you can ensure all the components are working correctly

It is advisable to get your tank serviced once a year. Your tank will be emptied and cleaned, with any blockages removed. If any defects are detected during the service, it’s best to get faulty parts

replaced as soon as possible. Failure to fix problems quickly can lead to major issues further down the line. For help and advice on how best to maintain your sewage treatment plant, please contact our friendly and knowledgeable team.

How long should a sewage pump run?

Your sewage pump should not run constantly. Usually it should run from 10 to 15 seconds until the float switch detects the water level has dropped adequately. It will then cut off. If your sewage pump is running constantly it may need to be serviced, repaired or replaced. The average life expectancy of a sewage pump is about 10 years.

Which make of pumps are used in the Sewage Pumping Stations?

In our 2” vortex range we use Hippo 50 pumps for up to 6m head and Hippo 100 pumps for up to 10m head. In our 2” macerator range we use Semison 125GR pumps, in our 2½” vortex range we use Semison 650 pumps and lastly in our 3” vortex range we use hippo 80-200. Details of which can be found either on our website or a copy can be sent across please call for more information.

How do I know if my sewage pump is working correctly?

You may need to service or replace your sewage pump is you find the following: -

  • If the water at the discharge point is dirty or brown
  • The pump is not working at all or sounds like it’s struggling to pump
  • Your pump is constantly running and doesn’t switch off even though no one is using the facilities in the building
  • Sewage is backed up into the building
  • There is a smell of sewage
  • There is no fluid emptying from the holding tank
  • There is no power to the pump

 

If you do require a Service, please give a ring to arrange.

Will my sewage pump need maintenance?

Yes, it is cost effective to get your sewage pump regularly maintained to lengthen the life of the pump. Typically pump servicing will include: -

  • Cleaning out the sump chamber
  • Cleaning of pumps and float switch
  • Electrical test of pumps and all floats
  • Checking all cables for damages and general wear

What size pump do I require for my Sewage Pumping Station?

The size of the pump required is down to the rise to main from the tank to the sewer, please call us for further help on this.

What size tank do I need?

Tanks are sized on the number of people using the system, you should allow 150 litres per person multiplied by the number of people using the property to calculate your 24hr storage capacity.

For commercial properties please contact us, and we can help size this for you. 

Do the tanks come with any pre-drilled inlet holes?

No the tanks are supplied without an inlet hole, this is usually drilled on site however we do supply the seal to make the hole water tight and should you require us to drill this for you at the factory, we can offer this also.

What type of sewage pump do I need?

Sewage pumps are available in a few different options including effluent pumps, grinder pumps or macerator pumps and submersible pumps. Effluent pumps remove the grey wastewater that stays in your septic tank after the solids have settled and are good for residential and small commercial applications.

Grinder pumps or macerator pumps collect wastewater from your household appliances and fixtures including toilets, washing machines, and bathtubs. Grinder or macerator pumps works by the pump grinding the waste into a fine slurry before pumping it to your septic tank when the water in the tank reaches a certain level from a holding tank to collect waste. Submersible pumps are used for residential, commercial, and agricultural applications.

If you are unsure of the type of sewage pump you need, we are more than willing to help. Please give us a call or send us an email.

Silt Traps

How does a silt trap work?

The job of your silt trap is to prevent any unwanted materials, like silt, soil and sediment, from entering your water storage system. Before entering the drainage system, water is directed into the silt trap — a basin-type container that is placed in the upstream of your soakaway crate. The water is temporarily contained in the trap where the silt and sediment settles to the bottom, leaving the filtered water at the top. The invert of the pipe sits just above where the sump settles below, allowing the filtered water to continue to the drainage system, leaving the silt behind.

Without a silt trap, silt and debris would enter your water storage system and cause costly damage. If water cannot drain away you risk causing flooding and your system’s ability to remove water could be affected, clogging pipes or filling soakaway systems, reducing their capacity for holding water.

What different types of slit trap are available?

All silt traps have the same purpose — to keep a soakaway system free from silt and sediment. But different types of silt traps are better for different types of systems. The primary difference between the different types of silt traps is the size of the area covered by your system. That’s why silt traps come in a range of sizes, so make sure you choose one that is suitable for your needs. Naturally, the larger the area your water storage system is serving, the larger your silt trap should be. You will also want to consider the type of environment. At Tanks.ie, we stock a range of car wash silt traps that offer effective silt removal for car wash facilities or any areas with particularly high silt run-off.

How to clean a silt trap?

Silt and debris will build up in your silt trap, so it’s important that it is regularly cleaned and maintained. Failure to do so can, at best, result in them becoming ineffective or, worse, eventually lead to an entirely blocked drainage system. The ‘basket’ of your silt trap can usually be easily removed to allow you to clean it and then put it back. The instructions will vary between each silt trap so it’s important to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

GRP Tanks

What is a GRP tank?

Glass Reinforced Plastic tanks are made from high quality GRP material manufactured to BS EN 13280:2001, are suitable for all cold water applications, insulated tanks are also suitable for external applications, and are fully WRAS approved.

Benefits of GRP over steel or plastic

Most GRP tanks are supplied fully pre-insulated with PU foam fully encapsulated within the GRP laminate, GRP tanks come in a wide range of standard sizes and can also be supplied bespoke to suit your specific size and configuration requirements.

Whats the difference between an AB or AG air gap tank?

An AG type airgap provides mains water protection from fluid category 1-4 with standard lid arrangement for an inlet float valve fitted in the body of the tank, and an AB type air gap, also known as category 5, is when a raised float valve housing is fitted with a spill over weir in addition to the overflow in the body of the tank.

When is a 1 piece, 2 piece or sectional tank used?

1 & 2 piece tanks are available from 90 to 12,000 litres, sectional tanks can be supplied from 125 to 2,000,000 litres. Usually where access permits a 1 piece can be used without any assembly needed, if access is restricted a 2 piece tank can be installed and the top and bottom halved bolted together on site. Sectional tanks are for where access restrictions or other conditions deny the installation of one and two piece tanks. They comprise of individual bolt-up panels which are assembled on site.

Sizing a float valve for my GRP tank, which one would I need?

A float valve will usually be sized to suit your incoming mains water supply, so if you have a 25 mm incoming mains you will need a 1” float valve. If we supply the float valve with your tank we will size and supply the overflow to suit this.

What is a WRAS tank and is it compulsary?

The Water Regulation Advisory Scheme sets legal requirements for the design, installation, operation and maintenance of plumbing systems, water fittings and water-using appliances. These Regulations and Bye laws apply in all types of premises supplied, or to be supplied with water by a water company. All of our insulated GRP tanks are fully WRAS approved, so can be connected to a mains cold water supply. These regulations do not apply where a property uses a private water supply and does not have a supply of water from a water company.

There are lots of optional extras on the GRP tanks, what are they and are they required?

Our GRP tanks are usually supplied without any connections, as many customers supply and fit their own. However we can supply a comprehensive range of items including inlet float valves, outlet connections and other fittings to suit your individual application. Please contact us to discuss or request a quote for your requirements.

Do you supply pumps with the GRP tanks?

If you require a booster pump, you must fit a break tank to the incoming mains water supply to connect to the pump set. Our GRP tanks are ideal for break tanks. We can supply a wide range of booster sets where a break tank is needed.

Do you offer a clean & disinfection of tanks which have been previously been purchased?

Yes, we can supply a quote for cleaning existing tanks. We can also arrange to clean and disinfect newly installed tanks as part of the supply and assembly service on all new 1, 2 & sectional tanks.

Septic Tanks

What is the best type of septic tank for a house?

A septic tank is the first stop for the wastewater that leaves your home. The waste is held in the tank, where it goes through the process of separating the solids from the liquids before filtering water into your drainage field. The best type of septic tank for your house will depend on several variables – from your property’s square footage to the number of bedrooms and number of people using the system.

The larger your house, the larger septic tank you’ll probably need. And the more occupants in your home, the bigger the tank you’ll need. A small septic tank will probably suffice if you only have two people living in your property – but if you have a large family, of five or more people living in your home, you’ll need a larger septic tank to manage all the household waste hygienically and effectively.

It's also important to consider the following: Do you have two kitchens? Or multiple bathrooms and ensuites? Do you have, or plan to have, a hot tub or a swimming pool? All of these will increase the demand on your septic tank.

Can I sell a house without a septic tank?

If you sell a property with a septic tank that discharges directly into a watercourse, you should agree with the buyer who will be responsible for replacing or upgrading the treatment system. You should agree this as a condition of sale. You must also provide the buyer with a description of the treatment plant and drainage system, the location of the main parts of the treatment plant, the drainage system and discharge point, how the treatment plant should be maintained, and any details of any changes made to the treatment plant and drainage system while you were the owner of the property. You’ll also want to give the new owners the maintenance manual and maintenance records if you have them.

Selling a property without a septic tank installed or with a septic tank that is non-compliant with the government’s general binding rules will not only detract potential buyers but may also be subject to enforcement action by the Environment Agency. You can find details of the latest regulations surrounding septic tanks on the government’s website here.

Can rainwater go into septic tank?

Rainwater must not enter your septic tank. Make sure that the downpipes and drains that carry rainwater are not connected to your septic tank. Your tank is sized to deal with a specific volume of wastewater – ensuring the sewage remains in the septic tank long enough for all the solid waste to settle at the bottom. If rainwater enters the tank, the flow rate increases, and adequate settlement does not occur. As a result, the effluent would contain so many suspended solids that it would very quickly compromise the soakaway, and the contents of the tank will be washed out before they’ve been broken down, causing pollution and health hazards. Septic tanks and sewage treatment systems must only be connected to grey and black water drains, such as toilets, sinks, showers, baths, washing machines, and dishwashers. If you’re looking to manage rainfall and surface water, consider installing a rainwater harvesting system

Due to the new regulations, do I need to upgrade to a Sewage Treatment System?

You would only need to upgrade your septic tank if the run off discharges to a water course.

Standard soak aways are still legal.

How often should I empty my septic tank?

Your tank should be emptied once a year so that you do not risk a build up of sludge which can lead to problems with your system. The company you use to empty your septic tank must be registered to do so.

Does my septic tank need a permit?

Owners of properties connected to larger on-site systems where the discharge is in excess of 5 cubic metres per day do not need to register (i.e sports clubs, pubs, hotels, guesthouses and other businesses).  Instead such systems may require a licence from the relevant local authority under Section 4 of the Water Pollution Act 1997. 

Do septic tanks need servicing?

You should have your septic tank system regularly maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. If these are not available, ask your local maintenance company for advice. This will save costly repairs or replacement of the sewage system in the long term.

What do I need to look out for when buying a septic tank?

When buying a septic tank is good to consider the following questions:-

  • Is a septic tank the correct solution to meet your requirements? It may be that instead of a septic tank, you need a sewage treatment plant.
  • Have you undertaken a Percolation Test? A percolation test is a method of assessing how much water can drain away through your plot’s subsoil. It is performed by excavating a small area and monitoring the time taken for the water to drop in minutes per inch. The final decision will often be determined by drainage options – i.e. do you have access to mains drainage or a water course?

What do I need to consider if I am buying/ selling a property with a septic tank?

Homeowners with septic tanks that discharge directly into ditches, streams, canals, rivers, surface water, drains or any other type of water course will need to replace or upgrade their drainage either when they sell their property or as soon as possible.

What are some things that should not be put into the septic tank system?

  • Don’t flush anything other than bodily waste and toilet paper down the toilet
  • Don’t dispose of grease or oil down any drain – wipe out pans and pour fat into a container to be disposed of in the bin
  • Don’t put paints, solvents or chemicals down the drain
  • Don’t try to unblock pipes with caustic soda or drain cleaners. Try boiling water instead
  • Don’t connect rainwater pipes to your septic tank

What are your options when it comes to the Septic Tank Regulations

If your current system discharges directly into a water course, you will need to upgrade your system. To go through your options give us a call, and we can talk you through the various options.

My old tank needs some parts replacing do you offer this?

Yes we offer the full range of Klargester replacement parts, please see our wastewater accessories category 

What checks should I make on my septic tank system?

If your septic tank system is in good working order you should have the following:

  • Your household drainage should be quick to clear, and toilets should not be backing up
  • There should be no smell from your tank and the cover should be accessible and well fitting
  • The soak away should be dry not swampy, smelly or have prolific grass growth
  • A pale liquid with little or no smell should come from the discharge pipe. It should not be dark, smelly or contain solids
  • Makes sure to keep deep-rooted trees and plants at least 30 m away from your system. Keep the grass nearby short.

If any of the above is showing signs that your septic tank system is not in proper working order, you must get it repaired or replaced by a credited installer.

How to Discharge Waste from Septic Tanks

There are 3 options available:

(1) Connect to a main sewer if possible
(2) install a drainage field or
(3) install a sewage treatment plant which treats the wastewater, producing a clear overflow that is environmentally friendly and suitable for discharging.

To see our full range of sewage treatment plants click here

Why should I look after my septic tank system?

If your septic tank system is not in good working order it can be a serious risk to both health and the environment. You also have a legal responsibility to maintain your septic tank system. In looking after your septic tank system, it will have to be emptied less frequently, saving you money. A septic tank system can also be costly to replace if it fails.

Do I need to register my tank?

Yes you need to register your septic tank with your Local Authority – click here to register https://www.protectourwater.ie/. There is a charge of €50 to register.

Is the landlord responsible for emptying the septic tank?

If you own a property which you rent, or you are a tenant yourself, it can become a little less clear who has the responsibility to empty the septic tank. Maintenance and responsibility can be written into the tenancy agreement. If you are a landlord renting out a property with a septic tank you may need to put measures in place if you want the tenant to take responsibility for the septic tank. You may need an inspection or service after the end of any tenancy period. As a tenant, if it is written into the tenancy agreement that you have responsibility for the septic tank, you might also want to insist upon an inspection to ensure you aren’t inheriting any issues you would then be liable to pay for is one way to do this. Checking the schedule of maintenance and the obligations is another before any serious issues can occur. Following the guidelines of the septic tank is important too.

How far should my septic tank be from the house?

Septic tanks should be at least 7 metres away from any dwelling. They should also be located within 30 metres of an access point so that the tank can be emptied.

Septic tanks vs cesspools, which is best?

If you do not have sufficient area required to discharge the run out from a septic tank, you would need a cesspool which requires emptying on a 40 day cycle. Please contact us for help if required.

Sewage Treatment Systems

Can I fit my own sewage treatment plant?

Although instructions are supplied with each of our products, installing a sewage treatment plant is no small feat and we do not recommend installing one yourself unless you are 100% confident you know what you’re doing. There are lots of health and safety issues to consider when excavating holes and if your sewage treatment plant is installed incorrectly you could find yourself in a nasty mess – both physically, financially, and legally.

Hiring a professional contractor to do the installation will give you complete peace of mind. Your sewage treatment plant will be installed safely, efficiently, and perhaps most importantly, it will be legally compliant. Be aware there are different rules relating to the installation of sewage treatment plants depending on whether you are based in England, Scotland, Wales, or Northern Ireland. You may need to apply for a Consent to Discharge from the Environment Agency – a licence that says that your wastewater is clean enough to release into the environment and not damage local wildlife.

Do domestic sewage treatment plants smell?

A well-maintained sewage treatment plant should not give off any bad smells. They are designed to contain any naturally occurring odours that arise during the treatment process. If your sewage treatment plant has an unpleasant odour it is important to investigate the cause.

It could be that your tank is full and needs emptying. Check the levels of sludge in your tank and arrange for the tank to be emptied if necessary.

Clogged vents could also be the cause of odours. The vents in sewage treatment plants allow toxic and flammable methane gases present in the waste to escape. Check the vent isn’t clogged with waste, snow, ice, or an animal’s nest.

Bad smells can also be caused by contamination in your sewage treatment plant. Harsh chemicals, grease or fat will all interfere with the natural enzymes in your plant that work to break down the sewage. 

Do I need a soakaway for my sewage treatment plants?

A soakaway is a large hole dug into the ground, filled with stones, that manage the effluent and surface water by collecting, treating, and cleansing it, before letting it drain slowly back into the environment.

You do not necessarily need a soakaway for a sewage treatment plant ­– only for a septic tank. This is because the water released by a septic tank has only gone through one stage of treatment and is still hazardous to the environment. It is therefore important that water from a septic tank undergoes further treatment and cleansing in a soakaway before being safely released into the environment.

In a sewage treatment plant, the wastewater has already been through at least two stages of treatment and is therefore safe to be released directly back into the environment.

How long do sewage treatment plants last?

Sewage treatment plants don’t require much upkeep, but it is important to keep them properly maintained and serviced. They will need emptying periodically, a process known as ‘desludging’, by a registered and licensed waste collection company. Treat your sewage treatment plant properly and it could last up to twenty years. If they are misused or not properly maintained, their lifespan will reduce significantly.

To keep your domestic sewage treatment plant working for as long as possible, pay attention to what you are flushing down the toilet and washing down the sink. Do not flush kitchen roll, food waste, nappies, baby wipes, grease, fats and oils or sanitary products down the drain and careful with the volume of cleaning agents and detergents you are using as these can sometimes overload the system. Areas with softer water will require weaker cleaning products than hard water areas. It’s also beneficial to get your sewage treatment plant regularly serviced, where a professional will come out and inspect your system and identify any potential issues before they get worse.

Do I need to empty my domestic sewage treatment plant?

Sewage treatment plants work by separating wastewater from solid waste in a settlement chamber. Gravity causes the heavier, solid waste to sink to the bottom of the tank so that the wastewater can be treated before being released into the environment. The solid at the bottom of the tank, referred to as sludge, builds up reducing the available volume and space in the tank for the wastewater treatment process. Your tank will become less effective and will eventually fail causing problems.

For this reason, your sewage treatment tank will need emptying periodically ­– a process known as desludging. How often you de-sludge your tank will depend on the type of system you have as sludge build up varies between systems. We recommend you use a registered and licensed waste collection company who will be fully insured to handle the sludge. They will visit your site, remove the sludge from your sewage treatment plant tank, and take it away for disposal.

How do commercial sewage treatment plants work?

Commercial sewage treatment plants are large-scale waste removal systems for commercial properties that are either in a rural area or can’t be connected to the public sewage network. As they are entirely independent, they use a process that breaks down the waste into a clean product that can be directly discharged directly into the environment without harming the local habitat.

They function in the same way as domestic sewage treatment plants, but are designed to cope with a much higher volume of sewage. Commercial sewage treatment plants have a motor, powered by a generator or other electrical source, that circulates air within the system. Naturally occurring bacteria use this air to break down the wastewater in the system. This destroys the harmful substances in the waste, and, after several stages of treatment, the wastewater is clean enough to be pumped into the local environment.

Initially the waste goes through a pre-treatment stage, that removes large objects and solids. The waste is then pumped into a settlement zone, where liquids rise to the top and larger substances collect at the bottom thanks to their different densities. Bacteria starts to break down harmful substances and the sludge that forms at the foot of the tank is periodically removed. The remaining liquid is then ‘cleaned’ by a process known as ‘biological treatment’, where aerobic bacteria use the oxygen circulated by the motor to break down more harmful substances. Finally, the wastewater goes through a final round of cleansing to kill any remaining harmful substances that remain. This may involve chemicals to ensure the water is as clean as possible before it’s discharged. 

What’s the difference between commercial and domestic sewage treatment plants?

Commercial sewage treatment plants function in much the same way as domestic sewage treatment plants but are designed to cope with a much higher volume of sewage. Commercial sewage treatment plants can service business and commercial properties where 50 or more people go to work. In contrast, domestic sewage treatment plants would usually only deal with household waste from up to four or five people.

You’ll want to choose a commercial sewage treatment system based on the size of the premises and the number of people using the facilities. But don’t go too small! It might save you money in the short term to buy a smaller system, but if you need to upgrade to a larger system in the future it will cost you.

It is important to keep any sewage treatment plant properly serviced and maintained, but with commercial sewage treatment plants professional maintenance may be required more often and require specialty maintenance to ensure everything is working as it should.

How much do commercial sewage treatment plants cost?

Sewage treatment plants are robust and effective and offer many benefits over some other methods of sewage treatment such as septic tanks and cesspits. But how much does a commercial sewage treatment plant cost? There are several costs to consider.

The sewage treatment plant

The price of your commercial sewage treatment plant will depend on a variety of factors. Get in touch and we will listen to understand your requirements and help you choose the best plant for your commercial premise.

Cost to install

The cost of installing your commercial sewage treatment plant will depend on whether you’re installing a brand new system or upgrading an existing one, as well as which plant you have chosen and where the plant is being installed. 

Annual service

You’ll need an annual service to ensure the ongoing performance of your commercial sewage treatment plant. The cost will depend on your equipment and location.

Emptying

Sewage treatment plants need to be periodically ‘de-sludged’.

What are the 3 types of sewage treatment?

  • Primary wastewater treatment

The primary treatment of wastewater removes material that will either float to the top or settle to the bottom. The wastewater is temporarily held in a settling tank where the heavier solids sink to the bottom and lighter bits float to the surface. Once settled, these solids are held back while the rest of the liquid is moved through to the secondary phase of wastewater treatment.

  • Secondary wastewater treatment

A deeper and more rigorous secondary phase of wastewater treatment uses aerobic biological processes to substantially degrade the biological content of the waste, reducing common biodegradable contaminants down to safe levels. There are three ways to do this: biofiltration that uses filters to ensure that any additional sediment is removed from the wastewater, aeration which increases oxygen saturation by introducing air to wastewater and oxidation ponds that allow wastewater to pass through natural bodies of water for a set period before being retained for two to three weeks.

  • Tertiary wastewater treatment

Tertiary wastewater treatment aims to improve water quality to meet domestic and industrial standards. It involves removing pathogens to ensure water is safe for drinking

How does domestic sewage treatment work?

A domestic sewage treatment plant works by breaking down solid waste to produce a cleaner, more environmentally friendly effluent. Wastewater and sewage are supplied to the primary tank, where the solids separate and from the liquid and then flows into the biozone chamber. Here, a pump airs the waste and friendly bacteria is used to condense the organic matter, breaking it down. When the waste leaves the final waste chamber, it is 95% clean and ready for dispersal into soakaway systems, subject to consent from the relevant environmental agency.

What is the difference between a septic tank and a sewage treatment plant?

Although the two are often mistaken as the same thing, there are some distinct differences between the two. A sewage treatment plant creates a clean, environmentally friendly effluent which can be discharged directly to a watercourse. They often require electricity to operate and need regular servicing and emptying. A septic tank only needs emptying once a year, doesn’t use any electricity and doesn’t require servicing. However, they produce a very polluting waste product, which must be dispersed to a soakaway and the septic pollutants go through further handling by the natural aerobic soil bacteria.

How I do install a sewage treatment plant?

It is strongly recommended that a suitably trained and qualified professional installs your sewage treatment plant. You could be faced with hefty repair costs, fines and even legal issues (that will be far greater than the cost of hiring a professional installer) if any part of your private sewage system is installed incorrectly. If you are confident you have the skills to do this yourself you should have step by step instructions on how to do it from the manufacturer of your chosen tank, plus all the health and safety measures that should be taken. The following will give you a brief guide on what will be involved in the install, but always ensure you adhere to the manufacturer’s guidance as some steps may vary.

  • Inspect tank for damage

Although our tanks will have been fully tested and checked before being dispatched to you, make sure to thoroughly inspect the tank for any damage caused during transportation as, once the tank is installed, we may not be able to accept your return.

  • Placing the tank

Ensure your hole is large enough for the both the tank and the recommended backfill. Prepare a base for the tank and carefully lower the tank into the hole, using the recommended lifting system, checking that the inlet and outlet orientation is correct. Ensure your tank is level and use the correct backfill, which might be concrete, gravel or sand, but check the manufacturer’s manual to see what they advise and follow their steps for adding the backfill.

  • Installing the inlet and outlet

Installing the inlet and the outlet should be straightforward, but it is always worth contacting a qualified plumber if you are unsure. Follow the manufacturer’s installation guide to connect the pipework. For easier maintenance access, some manufacturers advise the install of an inspection chamber before and after the treatment to make life easier should any problems arise in the future.

  • Wire up the electrics

All electrical work should be conducted by a qualified electrician. The installation manual will detail what is required.

This is a very simplistic guide of what is required to install your sewage treatment plant. In addition to these steps, you may also need to install a soakaway to complete your system.

How do I need to prepare to install my sewage treatment plant?

It is highly recommended that you fully understand and adhere to all the regulations that will affect your installation and running of a sewage treatment plant. If you are the property owner where the tank is being installed, this is your sole responsibility and you could be liable to heavy fines or repair costs if things are done incorrectly.

Invert Depth, what is this?

It is the level of the soil pipe entering the septic tank or treatment system.

Gravity or IPS, what is the difference and when would I need them?

If the flow from your system can not release without help, i.e. required to be uplifted you would need a pump to help with this.

Grease Traps

What's a grease trap?

It is estimated that nearly half a million tonnes of grease and fat enter the UK sewerage system each year, causing blockages and damage to pipes and wastewater equipment. Grease builds up inside pipes as it sticks to pipe walls and, if it enters a natural water course, fats, oils, grease and starch (FOGS) can seriously damage the environment. This damage is extremely costly to local authorities so proper management of FOGS is heavily enforced. Failure to effectively manage buildup could lead to heavy fines or even closure of commercial businesses.

Grease traps collect and reduce the number of FOGS entering the main sewers, helping to prevent drain blockages, bad smells and pest infestations. They can be located above or below ground, inside or outside your property, but positioned within the wastewater drain that connects your sinks and appliances to the sewer system. Fats and oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top so, when wastewater enters a grease trap, it slows the water flow down significantly, separating solids to the bottom layer, wastewater in the middle and FOGS at the top. Wastewater is then allowed to flow into the sewer, while the FOGS are trapped.

How does a grease trap work?

Water and oil don’t mix. Animal fats and vegetable oils are much less dense than water, so they float to the top. In a grease trap, waste that flows through is slowed down and allowed a settlement period where solid waste sinks to the bottom and FOGS float to the top. A trap on the outlet prevents FOGS flowing through, permitting only the cleaner middle layer of wastewater to flow into the sewer system. Your grease trap needs to be properly maintained to ensure its continued effectiveness with regular cleaning required every two to four weeks by a licensed contractor.

Grease traps ensure grease and other build-up does not enter the main sewer system. Whether they’re attached to sinks, dishwashers or any other wastewater appliance that produce FOG, grease traps all perform the same basic function, with perhaps slightly different approaches. The size of the grease trap you’ll need will depend on the flow rate of the wastewater running through it — the higher the flow rate, the bigger the grease trap. At Tanks.ie we stock a wide range of grease traps in different size options to suit every flow rate.

What are the different types of grease trap?

Grease traps are a popular method of managing fats, oils and grease. At Tanks Direct we stock two types of grease traps for FOGS management — manual and automatic. Both do the same job of separating FOGS, solids and water within the tank, helping to prevent grease related issues. By slowing the flow of waste as it enters the grease trap and letting the wastewater cool, the elements naturally separate with solids sinking to the bottom, FOGS floating to the top and water remaining in the middle. What happens with each of these elements next is what differentiates a manual and automatic grease trap.

Manual grease traps are inexpensive and cheap to install. They simply contain and hold the FOGS until they are cleaned out. Automatic grease traps, also known as Automatic Grease Removal Units (or AGRUs), are more expensive than manual grease trap. However, automatic units systematically reheat and skim out the top layer of the tank where the FOGS sit, depositing it into a container where it can be disposed of easily. A separate filter catches any solid matter, which can be easily accessed and removed for disposal.

Where would you require a grease trap?

Damage to sewer systems from FOGS can be extremely costly to local authorities and so there is much legislation surrounding best practices and correct disposal of fats, oils and grease, particularly for commercial food premises. If your property is connected to the mains drainage system and you’re serving hot food to the public or your staff, Building Regulations (document H, section 2.21) state you should have a grease trap or another effective means of grease removal fitted.

If you operate a commercial kitchen, such as a café, a pub, a takeaway service, a restaurant, a bakery or a staff canteen, a grease trap could help you to effectively manage your FOGS.

Are grease trap fumes toxic?

Grease traps can generate flammable and toxic gases over time. These gases can include methane (natural gas), hydrogen sulfide, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and/or other gases depending on the greases, oils, and fats found in the grease traps. It is extremely important to the health of those that work near the grease trap that it is regularly cleaned and maintained.

What are the requirements for grease traps?

By law, Irish Water now require that all food establishments obtain a license to discharge their wastewater into the public sewer.  To comply with this license, a grease trap must be installed, be regularly maintained to EU standards with records. It will be inspected regularly by Irish Water. In some counties, councils will specify that smaller domestic grease traps be installed in new one off houses or housing schemes. It is best practise to check with your local council as to what the requirements are in your area for a grease trap installation.

To find out more go to Irish Water

Are grease traps a legal requirement?

Yes, under current legislation, all food service establishments are required to have a licensed, serviced and well maintained grease trap which is sized according to the size of the establishment and the amount of food produced. This is regularly inspected by Irish Water.

To find out more go to Irish Water

What grease trap do I need?

The size of grease trap you require is determined by the amount of wastewater being discharged from the premises. The grease trap will be sized according to I.S. EN 1825 Parts 1 & 2 but it is important that it is not oversized.

Do all restaurants have grease traps?

Yes by law all food service establishments are required by Irish Water to have a licensed, regularly maintained and inspected grease trap. 

What happens when a grease trap is full?

When a grease trap is full, excess grease solidifies at the top, forming a cap. With all that grease and dirt buildup it becomes hard for water to flow through the drain, leading to slow waste movement.

Can you clean your own grease trap?

No. Legally, the fats, oils & grease that is removed from your grease trap can only be disposed of using a licensed waste removal contractor.

How do I fix a smelly grease trap?

If your great trap is smelling, this may indicate that it needs to be pump and cleaned. If it has been more than a couple of months since your grease trap was last serviced this may be your first port of call. Another reason maybe improper ventilation on your grease trap / separator which is installed on larger units to allow air to circulate or it may be that some of the pipework or equipment going into the grease trap is broken. By regularly cleaning and inpecting your grease trap you should avoid the issue of unpleasant odours from your kitchen.

Cesspools

What is a cesspool?

 A cesspool, also known as a cesspit, is an underground tank that collects wastewater and sewage. There is no outlet to disperse the waste or facility to treat it — it simply stores wastewater and sewage until it is collected by a tanker and taken away for disposal. They typically have a manhole for access and the only piping is to release gasses which accumulate in the tank. The contents of your cesspool must be removed regularly. How often will depend on the size of your tank and how much wastewater you are producing, but typically you will want your cesspool emptied by a licensed waste handler every month.

 You may need a cesspool if your property is not connected to a public sewer network or for holiday homes, camp sites and places where the discharge of effluent into the ground is not possible due to unsuitable soil conditions. You do not need a permit to install a cesspool unless the Environment Agency tells you that you do and they do not have to comply with the general binding rules that apply to septic tanks. However, you will need planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

What is the difference between a cesspool and a septic tank?

 A septic tank is buried underground, just like a cesspool. Unlike a septic tank however, a cesspool does not process or treat wastewater and sewage — it simply stores it. Septic tank systems treat the wastewater, treating the liquid wastewater so that it can drain away into a stream or soakaway. The system is simple but effective — wastewater enters a chamber where solids can settle and decompose at the bottom. The liquid at the top flows into a second chamber where any finer remaining solids are removed from the liquid and through to the soakaway. Solid waste from septic tanks will occasionally need collecting by a licensed disposal specialist, in much the same way as a cesspool, but much less often. That’s why having a cesspool can become quite costly long-term as waste disposal services don’t come cheap. Cesspools are also a less eco-friendly choice as untreated effluent could overflow into the surrounding environment. Septic tanks are safer as the wastewater is treated. 

When would I need a cesspool?

Cesspools are usually used as a last resort or for temporary drainage situations. You may need a cesspool if your property isn’t connected to the public sewer network and where discharging effluent into the ground is not possible, such as holiday homes and camp sites. Cesspools do not have to comply with general binding rules that apply to septic tanks and you won’t need a permit to install one unless the Environment Agency tells you otherwise. It is important, however, to obtain planning permission and building regulations approval to install your cesspool.

 For septic tanks, the recent changes in regulations state that they can no longer discharge into surface water, for example streams, rivers, ditches, drains etc. and if yours does you should replace it immediately with a full sewage treatment plant .

Wastewater Accessories

What is a distribution box on a septic tank?

A distribution box is used to divide the effluent flow from a septic tank into two or more percolation areas.

Is distribution box necessary?

The distribution box is a major part of the septic system being able to function properly is very important. If the distribution box isn't working the right way you will soon be dealing with percolation field failure.

What is the difference between septic tank and distribution box?

The septic system works by sending wastewater from your home through pipes that take it to a septictank. From there, the wastewater goes through more pipes to the distribution box. This distribution box distributes the wastewater evenly through field lines into the percolation area.

Water

Water Tanks

What’s a potable water tank?

Water tanks can be classified as ‘potable’ and ‘non potable’. If you are storing clean water for human consumption, whether it be for drinking, prepping food or cleaning dishes etc, then a potable water tank is what you are after. All potable tanks must conform to the WRAS (Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) so that the liquid is safe for human consumption.

Non-potable tanks are for the safe storage of non-drinking water or for ‘not suitable’ for human consumption, in many different environments and applications. Non-potable tanks can be used in applications like rainwater harvesting, irrigation, agriculture & horticulture and commercial purposes where mains water is not available.

The difference in classification between the two comes from the materials used during the manufacturing process, specifically the type of plastic used to line the inside of the tank which comes into contact with the contained water. Non potable tanks are more porous, making it easier for the bacteria to grow and can sometimes let off gases which can contaminate the water. The WRAS approved material lines the inside of the tank, making the tank fit for human consumption, either ingested or used on the skin.

What is the difference between Potable and Non-Potable water tanks?

In short, potable water tanks must conform to the Water Regulations Advisory Scheme (WRAS) so that the water inside is safe for drinking. Non-potable water tanks are designed for the safe storage of non-drinking water. It is the materials used during the manufacturing process that affect the classification of water tanks, specifically what type of plastic is used to line the inside of the tank.

If you need to store drinking water in your tank, you will need a potable tank. We have a wide range available with capacities ranging 4 to 6,000 litres. Potable tanks can store safe drinking water, especially when tap water is not available.

Non-potable water tanks are just as purposeful and can be used for many different applications, including flushing the toilet, washing machines, and gardening. We stock a wide range of non-potable water tanks with capacities ranging 12 to 22,000 litres.

What materials are the plastic tanks manufactured from?

Plastic water tanks can be made of lots of different materials, however the majority of tanks we offer are made from either a medium density polyethylene (MDPE) or a high density polyethylene.

What outlet do I require?

The majority of our water tanks come with an outlet as standard. We can offer a range of water tanks where the tanks can either ‘Drilled’ or ‘Undrilled’. ‘Drilled’ meaning allowing water to escape from the tank via the outlet, whereas ‘Undrilled’ is when the outlet will remain sealed, preventing liquid from coming out and ensuring the contents of the tank is only touching plastic.

If the position of the outlet is required in an alternative position to the standard one offered or extra to the one positioned, we can offer a plastic Fusion socket. This can be welded anywhere on the tank using a drawing supplied by us, positions marked out by you, then fitted by the manufacturer.   

Plain tanks (with no outlets) can also be offered.

If you require a plastic fusion socket or a plain tank, then please contact our Customer Service Team, who will be happy to help with your requirements.

Tap or hose tail kits, what’s the difference and when would I need one?

We offer a range of tap kits, each displaying the size of the hosetail and the outlet size the kit will suit. Tap Kit 5 (TPK5) is the best solution if you require a garden hose to be fitted. Our range of Hosetail kits allows you to attach a hose or pipe to the tank, leak-free. They are designed for continuous flow and come in varying sizes depending on the outlet.

All our tap kits come with a Jubilee clip and PDFE tape for that secure fit.

What’s a standard hose pipe size?

UK hose pipe diameters range from ½” to ¾” inch diameters. The majority of standard size garden hoses are 3/4” BSP, however we do offer accessories for the ½” hose, if required.

Baffled Water tanks, what are they and when are they recommended?

Baffled water tanks are tanks with an intergral wall system, which is primarily designed to strengthen and support the structure of the tank, when the tank is full of water.

Due to the structure of the baffles they can also be used for transporting water. The Baffles distrupt the movement of water, from surging from one side to the other. However, if you are transporting water, water tanks can be extremely hazardous when transporting large volumes of water. Please make sure the water tanks are installed and secured correctly, by a suitable qualified person before transportation. Baffled water tanks are an ideal solutions for car valeters, window cleaners or anyone who has to transport liquids using plastic water storage tanks and containers.

Bladder Tanks

What ground preparation is needed for bladder tanks?

A flat well-drained location is the ideal choice of a site that should be free from rocks, stones, tree stumps or any other sharp objects that may chafe or puncture the tank. On rough or stony ground sharp objects should be removed and ideally a layer of sand laid to provide a base. Maximum care must be taken to avoid placing tanks on ground having a cross slope as the tank is liable to “roll away” when being filled.

Do I need a ground sheet?

Not always, if the ground is free from debris and sharps then you can use these tanks without a ground sheet however, we do recommend using a ground sheet to prolong the life of the bladder tank

How do I fill the bladder tank?

This can be done from the water mains or through a pump with the relevant connector fitted to attach to the bladder tank. This must start slowly (up to max 490 litres per minute) then increased to a maximum of 1,000 litres per minute dependent on tank capacity

How do I empty the bladder tank?

This can be done by gravity or pumped, the tank may have to be lifted slightly to empty any remaining liquid

How do I maintain the bladder tank?

Our bladder tanks are quite easy to maintain. The surface should kept clean of debris and washed down occasionally. The inside can be cleaned through a small hatch using a hose pipe then drained away

Can the bladder tanks be prepaired?

Small cuts and abrasions can be repaired using our repair kit. Larger cuts/splits may have to be repaired at our factory (for a fee)

Water Butts

What size water tank do I need for my garden?

The size of your water tank really depends on what you want to use the rainwater for. If it is just for watering the garden, your water butt should be reletive to the size of garden you want to water. As a rule of thumb, you will use 8-10 litres of water for every square meter of garden bed and 5 litres for every establishing fruit tree in the summer period everytime you water. However you do not need to store all this water at one as we have usually have a plentiful supply of rainwater in Ireland. 

Our range of water butts ranges from 200 litres to 750 litres. If you are looking for a larger storage tank you can check out our range of Titan water tanks.

How do I install a water butt?

  1. Select a suitable downpipe to connect your water butt to by using a downpipe filter or diverter. To see our range of filters and diverters go to Rainwater Accessories.
  2. Drill a hole in the water butt around 80 to 100mm from the top on the correct side of the water butt to the downpipe
  3. Secure the hose connector to this hole
  4. Fit the downpipe diverter or rainwater filter to the downpipe at the correct height to allow the diverter to connect into the water butt
  5. Attach a flexible piece of hose from the diverter to the water butt connection.

What do I need to connect my water butt to the drain pipe?

You can use a downpipe filter or diverter to connect a water butt to your drain pipe. To see our range of filters and diverters go to Filters & Siphons.

Rainwater Harvesting

What can I use rainwater for?

Rainwater can be used for all outdoor uses; watering the garden, washing cars, cleaning down patios, driveways, walls etc, and ornamental ponds. It can also be used inside the house to flush toilets and feed washing machines. Rainwater use means less build-up of calcium deposits in appliances.

Rainwater is not suitable for drinking or for use in showers and baths. Rainwater is generally free of harmful minerals and in most cases chemicals but can be adversely effected by air pollutants and/0r contamination by animals in the catchment area. The only way rainwater can be used for drinking water is if it is treated by ultra-violet filters which are not practical in domestic use as generally a rainwater tank will not store enough water for total consumption in a domestic situation.

What size rainwater harvesting tanks do I need?

The size of a rainwater holding tank must match the demand for water with it’s availability as closely as possible.

BS 8515:2009 provides an authoritative and industry-approved means of calculating the optimum size of tank for household water use.

Unlike other industries it is better to reduce the size of the tank rather than over size it if in doubt as to the requirement. This is due to the benefit of allowing the tank to overflow at least twice a year to flush out floating debris. The tank chosen must therefore be a balance between rainwater supply and water demand.

In order to correctly size the tank, the capacity should be the lesser of either the rainwater supply or the water demand. A worked example demonstrating this principle is shown below:-

tank_size

Are rainwater tanks worth it?

There are many reasons why using a water butt is a good idea. By collecting rainwater a water butt,  you are using a free natural resource. This puts less pressure on an already under pressure water system and reduces the demand put on the public water system. By collecting rainwater, less water goes down the storm drains and eliviates pressur on the public drainage system and help to prevent flooding. An added bonus to using rainwater for watering your plants is that the plants love natural rainwater with no chemicals added.

Pumps

Fuel Pumps

How Does a Fuel Transfer Pump Work?

fuel transfer pump works simple by pumping fuel such as diesel or kerosene from one tank or container to another. Some diesel transfer pumps are rotary vane pumps, others are gear pumps. Electric diesel transfer pumps can be purchased in 12 volt, 24 volt, 230 volt and in ac and dc versions. Some diesel transfer pumps can also be battery operated for remote use.

What is the Best Diesel Transfer Pump?

There are various types of diesel transfer pumps available depending on the application and the volume of fuel you are pumping. For large volumes of fuel, there are disel pumps integrated into fuel management systems so you can track your fuel consumption. 

If you would like our advice on choosing the correct water or diesel pump, then please get in touch with our friendly team today.

For links to our fuel management systems please click Fuel Management Systems

Is it Safe to use a Water Pump to Transfer Diesel?

Because fuel tends to dissolve the gaskets and other materials used in water pumps, water pumps cannot be used to transfer diesel and diesel pumps cannot be used to transfer water. It is recommended that you use the correct pump for your application. There are also specific transfer pumps with liquids of high viscosities

If you are looking for a water pump click Water Pumps to see our range.

Some of our high viscosity pumps are as follows:-

Can I use a Diesel Pump to Transfer Petrol?

No, to transfer petrol you must use an ATEX rated pump which is safe to use in an explosive atmosphere. There are strict guidelines that must be followed in an areas where flamible substances are stored. 

To learn more about the ATEX Directives go to the HSE's website here

One of our Atex Rated Pumps is the Piusi EX50 Atex Pump

Water Booster Pump Sets

What is a booster pump?

A booster pump increases low water pressure and low flow either from a storage tank or on mains pressure throughout the whole property. If you have low water pressure or low flow, the booster pump will bring the water pressure up to the desired level to make your plumbing system work efficiently.

What is water pressure?

Water pressure is the force water is pushed through your pipes into your property. It effects the flow of water out of your taps, shower heads and into your appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers.

Water pressure is measured in bar or psi (pounds per square inch). One bar of water pressure is needed to raise water 10 metres high so the higher the water must travel, the lower the water pressure will be.

Why is my mains water pressure low?

If the water pressure in your house is low to all your plumbed appliances and fixtures, it is most likely the issue is that the water pressure coming into your house is low. If it is just to one of some of the appliances or fixtures, it could be an issue with that fixture, or a pipe run in your property. The amount of water pressure in your home may vary depending on the time of the day and the ground level of your property. Check that the water meter valve and the main shutoff valve are fully opened.

However, while these factors play a part, your water authority is required to supply a minimum of 0.7 bar of pressure. If the mains pressure into your property is consistently low, you may need to fit a booster pump to your plumbing system.

To see our full range of booster pump sets please click - Booster Pump Sets

What is a booster pump set?

A booster pump set usually contains a single, twin or triple booster pump, a pressure vessel and a pressure gauge. Most booster pumps also have dry run protection which means the pump will not run if there is no water flowing through it, preventing the pump from burning out. You can also get booster sets that include a water storage tank or break tank.

Can I boost mains water pressure?

To improve your mains water pressure and flow, a mains booster pump can be fitted to the mains cold water supply. In compliance with water fitting regulations, this is up to 12 litres per minute. Generally, a mains booster pump can improve the performance of all the water appliances and fixtures in your home.

Can you pump mains water?

Yes, the WRAS state that you can pump from the mains so long as there are safeguards in place so that 12l/min is not exceeded. Check that your booster pump is fully WRAS approved and suitable for potable or drinking water. If you require more than 12’/min you will need to install a break tank.

How do I choose a water pressure booster pump?

To choose the correct booster pump set you will need to know the head height that the pump needs to pump to, the flow rate you require, the pressure you require and the system type you need. You will also need to understand if you require on larger pump or multiple smaller pumps.

If you need help in choosing the correct booster pump set please call us or email us and we will be happy to help you.

Please see our full range of booster pump sets at - Water Booster Pump Sets

Does a booster pump need a pressure tank?

A pressure or break water tank can enhance a boosted system. The tank allows water extra space to go when it expands and prevents the booster pump from cycling on and off every time you turn the fixtures or appliances on. A larger break tank holds a volume of water referred to as drawdown and means there is a larger amount of water available before the booster pump turns on again reducing the use of the pump.

Do booster pumps increase flow?

Although a booster pump boosts water pressure, it also in many cases improves the flow rate. A booster pump is an impeller pump that that increases water flow and pressure in the same principle as a fan.

What type of pump is a booster pump?

A booster pump is generally a type of centrifugal pump used to increase the pressure of water flowing through pipe lines.

How does a booster pump work?

The booster pump draws water into the pump through the mains supply or break tank. When the water enters the chamber of the pump, the pump activates the impellers. The impellers then spin at a high rate boosting the pressure of the water before exiting through the outlet.

How can I improve my water pressure?

By adding a booster pump set to you can improve your mains water pressure. These booster sets make having multiple uses on your plumbing system at the same time possible such as showers and washing up.

How is my booster pump controlled?

The booster pump is controlled by pressure. When pressure is released by turning on a tap or appliance, the booster pump turns on to push the water through at a faster rate. When the appliance is turned off and the pressure builds up, the pressure switch turns the pump off until it is needed again.

What is the difference between water flow and water pressure?

There are differences between water pressure and water flow. Water flow is the volume of water delivered and is measured in litres per minute. Water pressure is the force or speed the water is delivered. Both are affected by the size and condition of the pipe work the water is flowing through.

What is a single pump booster set?

The single pump constant pressure cold water booster set, is designed to increase the pressure of water services within a building where the existing incoming main is not sufficient. If the supply of water fails during operation the pump automatically shuts down to prevent damage and re-starts again once water is restored. The pressure boosters are suitable for private water supply applications, particularly where constant pressure is required or where there are large fluctuations in demand.

 

Does my booster pump need to be serviced?

Yes, your booster pump will need to be serviced and maintained regularly to keep it in good working order. This will prevent unnecessary costly repairs or replacements at a later date.

I have poor water pressure in my house, what do I do?

Due to regulation, you cannot pump directly onto a mains water line for the whole property, without storing water and creating an overflow. To achieve this we supply the boosters systems with break tanks, as they are commonly known, to compliantly store the water to act as a reservoir and which the pump draws from.

Pump and Tank Booster Sets

Why do i have low or no water pressure?

If you use lots of appliances at the same time you water pressure will reduce, such as dishwashers and washing machines. If you have an older property, you may find your water pipe is smaller than those used in modern houses. Smaller pipes supply less water and can reduce pressure and flow.

When water pressure in your house is low, it is most likely the water pressure coming into your house is lower than the property requires. However, if you notice that the low pressure is only to just one or a few appliances then it could be an issue with that fixture, or a pipe that runs into your property.

The amount of water pressure in your home may vary depending on the time of the day and the ground level of your property. Check that the water meter valve and the main shut off valve are fully opened.

However, while these factors play a part, your water authority is required to supply a minimum of 0.7 bar of pressure. If the mains pressure into your property is consistently low, you may need to fit a booster pump to your plumbing system.

To see our full range of booster pump sets, please click - Booster Pump Sets

What size pump and tank do I need?

For this, we would require a breakdown of the cold water outlet for the whole property, i.e. 2 W/C’s, 4 Wash hand basins and a shower. Once we have calculated the building water demand, we can then specify the right storage tank, this is an industry standard of a capacity to cope with a 10-minute run time at full demand, most 3-4 bedroom properties for example work out at around 250L.

For most single property installation, pressure isn’t a huge concern, as low head booster systems that run up to 3 bar will produce more than sufficient pressure for a 2-story property.

Do I need a single or twin pump system?

This depends on a couple of factors, the demand of the building if you want it sharing across 2 pumps, but also the importance of the water supply, for example, manufacturing facilities who need wash down cannot afford the downtime of a single pump etc. With a twin pump system, you can share the duty across 2 pumps, which both pumps would run at 50% of total duty, or on duty standby, where each pump would be capable of 100% of total duty.

Water Pumps

On my Water Pump it mentions about head height. What is this and how do I work out what I require?

Head is the height in which the pump is lifting the waste, measured from cover level of the pump station, to the cover level of the discharge manhole. With this measurement we can ensure we supply a pump powerful enough to lift the waste up that high. We will need to know this and also the distance that it is pumping to make sure the pump quoted is suitable.

Automatic Pump - what does this mean?

An automatic pump is a pump that will automatically turn itself on and off as the liquid level rises and falls. These pumps are usually longer lasting as they do not burn out but switch off automatically if there is no liquid to pump therefore, they do not run dry.

What is a submersible pump?

A submersible pump means that the pump needs to be submerged or covered in liquid specifically the type specified on the pump such as water, wastewater, sewage etc.

Sewage Pumps

Why choose a macerator pump over a vortex pump?

If you have an application where the risk of blockages that could enter the drain run is higher than usual, for example if the property is rented, tenants could unwillingly block the pump, this is also a problem if it is an apartment block as you wouldn’t be able to source who was responsible for blocking It, but everyone would need to pay their share to fix it.

Also, macerator pumps, because of how they cut through the waste, they can pump a much higher head (vertical distance), so when compared to vortex pumps, if you have anything over 10m, you will need to be selecting macerator pumps. Always check the pump flow curves for your application or you can call to speak to one of our technical team if you want to be sure the pumps will do the task at hand.

When to choose a 65mm or 80mm vortex pump over a 50mm vortex pump

If you are concerned about the risk of blockages but also need a flow rate which macerator pumps can’t provide, or even if it’s purely just a faster flow rate you need, a larger 65mm or 80mm pump will be able to achieve this, calculating a specific flow rate to your application is difficult and would be best speaking to a member of our technical team to help specify the right pumps for your station.

Do waste pumps need servicing and if so, how often should this be done?

Waste pumps and your wastewater system in general need regular servicing to keep it in working order. A general desludging of your system and a check of the components such as the sewage pump will keep the sewage treatment system in good working order for longer.

Generally, a good rule of thumb for servicing your sewage pump would be every 1 to 2 years or every time you empty your septic tank. It is a good idea to get it checked regularly to avoid a costly replacement further down the line.

Horizontal vs Vertical pumps

This depends on your existing pump and the type of installation you have or are planning on. The vertical Hippo 50 has a vertical port discharges via a 2” female port and the horizontal Hippo 50 discharges via a horizontal 2” female port but is also DN50 flanged

What is a Vortex Impeller Sewage Pump?

Vortex impeller sewage pumps use centrifugal action. In this sewage pump. the impeller rotates and causes a tornado-like action that pulls the waste into the pump and then sends it into the discharge pipe with little or no contact with the impeller which helps the pump to withstand any stringy material it may encounter. This means there is a much lower chance of clogging the impeller.

What is a Grinder Pump?

A grinder pump takes the wastewater from the holding tank, grinding any waste into a fine slurry and then pumps it into a sewage treatment plant. They can pump over much longer distances but at a slower rate because they are high pressure and low volume pumps.

Do I need a macerator?

Macerator pumps are used only for heads higher than 10m and with a low flow rate when you have a discharge rate restriction imposed by the water authority who own the sewer you discharging into.

Is there an option to have an enclosure for my pump set?

If a booster or compact set is being housed externally, you will need an enclosure to protect the inverter from the elements so anything electronic needs to be protected by an enclosure of some sort, never leave the booster set to face the elements

How much space do I require around my pump?

You require at least 500mm above the break tank so you can service it and inspect it when required. Also, a booster just needs to be installed in a maintainable space so that the inverters can be reviewed if needed via clear walkways and facing into the room, not tucked away down the side of a plant room.

Chemical

IBC Tanks

How do I safely fill an IBC?

To safely fill an IBC first make sure that the pallet, cage and bottle and valve are suitable for use with the intended product. Ensure that the valve is securely tighten to the inner bottle and that the valve is closed and that the drip cap is secured and tightened. Check that the inside of the bottle is clean. When hot  filling product  do not  exceed 65°C. When bottom  filling make sure that  the vents are functioning correctly or open the top cap.  Do not over fill the IBC.  After filling, if the product has a UN number, ensure that the lid seal is correctly  positioned and tighten the screw cap to 70-80 Newton/Meters.

How do I transport an IBC safely?

Do not lift IBCs from the top frame. Ensure that the fork truck tines are fully inserted under the IBC before lifting. Ensure that the vehicle floor is in good condition and free of all nails etc. that could puncture the IBC. Always transport IBCs with the correct labelling attached to the ID Plate.

Always secure IBCs to prevent possible movement during transit.

 

Can the IBC's (intermediate bulk containers) be stacked?

Yes, depending on the pallet type, our IBCs can be stacked as follows whether empty or full:

MX IBCs - with metal or plastic pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

SX IBCs - with metal pallets - Up to 4 High (with a maximum SG of 1.6)

LX IBCs - with wooden or plastic pallets - Up to 3 High (with a maximum SG of 1.4)

Agriculture

Livestock Drinkers & Footbaths

What is an animal drinker?

Animal or livestock drinkers are automatic self-filling containers which are suitable for a wide range of animals including cats, dogs, sheep, goats, cattle, horses etc. These drinkers have a contact supply of water so that the animals never go thirsty.

Why do sheep need a footbath?

Footbaths are used for sheep to minimise disease and the spread of foot rot and helps in healing already affected feet. This improves the welbeing of the sheep. 

If you are looking for a sheep footbath please click Sheep Footbath

What is the purpose of a foot bath in cattle?

Cows hoofs are commonly wet, and in a bacteria laden environment that have the tendency to contract bacterial based diseases. Cattle footbaths are used to prevent cow hoof disease and to control outbreaks of hoof diseases in herds by bathing their hoofs in a disinfectant solution. 

To purchase cattle footbaths click Cattle Footbaths

Livestock Feeders & Dispensers

What is a milk feeder?

A compartment multi teat feeder allows calves or lambs to be allocated the correct amount of milk and reduces the effect of bullying.

To look at our range of milk feeders click Livestock Feeders & Dispensers

Livestock Drinkers & Footbaths

Why would you use a boot bath?

A boot bath can be ideally used at the entrance of poultry units, piggeries and dairies etc. to disinfect, clean and decontaminate boots before entering and help the control and spread of disease.

Why use a sheep dip tub?

Plunge dipping is an effective way to control and eliminate sheep scab and other ecto-parasites including ticks, lice and blowfly,especially inside the ears and behind the tail, the preferred site of many ticks. Our sheep dip tub can be used for this purpose.

To purchase the sheep dip tub click Sheep Dip Tub.

Garden Compost Bins

What is composting?

Composting is the layering of organic waste to break down the organic material with the aid of microorganisms in the presence of oxygen. The end product is known as compost. 

What are the benefits of composting?

Compost is a valuable soil improver for your garden. Unlike simply adding mineral fertilisers, compost retains and impoves the soil fertility. Another benefit of composting at home is that it can reduce your household waste by up to 30%. Composting at home is a way of protecting the environment. Composting also saves money by saving on domestic waste charges, saves on the cost of a bio-waste container and saves on fertiliser because compost is very rich in nutrients. To view our full range of Compost Bins click on Garden Compost Bins

Where should I locate my compost bin?

When choosing a location, ensure your composter is easy access from the house and garden. You should be able to get to the compost bin easily with a wheelbarrow. Install the composter at least 0.5m away from your neighbours property. Your compost bin needs to be installed directly on the ground to allow the microorganisms to access the composter.You should fit grating on the base of your compost bin to protect against rodents.

A compost bin cannot be placed on concrete, stone or asphalt. It must be placed over the ground. Loosen the compressed ground before installing. The compost bin will work more effectively if you locate the composter in the sun or semi-shade under a tree or a hedge. This allows the heat of the sun to evaporate the water from it's contents but it must not dry out completely. Moisture is needed for the rotting process but not too much moisture. The compost bin should also be protected from the worst of the wind.

How do I start off the composter?

When first filling, use a bulky structured material like broken twigs as the bottom layer to allow air into the compost from below. This also allows excess water to drain off. Ensure a good mix of garden and kitchen waste in layers if possible. The better the compost is mixed, the easier it rots. Fill your compost bin slowly with organic waste produced on a daily basis. Wet materials should be mixed with dry one and coarse materials with fine ones. Be seslective in what you add to your compost bin.

Can you compost in the winter?

In order to compost properly in the winter, the dry leaves and shredded garden waste collected in the autumn should be added to the compost bin. The contents of the composter break down slower over the winter months but the process will continue as the microorganisms actively produce heat.

What waste can I put into my compost bin?

Fruit and vegetable waste, coffee grounds, tea leaves, crushed eggshells, pot plants, cut flowers, spent potting soil, lawn cuttings and leaves are all great for composting. 

Meat, fish, leftover food, bread, suasage, cheese rind, bones, diseased plants, coal or charcoal ash, cigarettes, hoover bags, litter, medicines and nutshells should NOT be put into your compost bin.